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The Light class Racing Drone for Daytona Drone Club has been established
There are an endless range of options to building a small racing drone. The objective as a drone club is to establish basic rules so the competition can be competitive and fun
Our small racing class will use the protek 35 design as the basis to determine the build and configuration classes.
a basic beginner using what would be considered as Stock Car, one you can buy off the shelf without modification
advanced class would allow mods but maintaining the battery size and the all-out no holds barred class of unlimited mods.
All small class drone racers having to meet design specifications in size and weight
So this has taken a slight turn.
Going through the assembly, having a small fire and lots of wiring disasters there has been some progress made
after getting a great deal on an esc, then realizing it was part of a assembly, i wired a brand new f7 controller to it. I used a short identifier and I guess I didn't want to belive it and went ahead and plugged in the battery.
So after realizing red flames were not good for electronic parts I tried a new plan. This thim I purchased a clracing controller with esc in one. There are a couple issues here.
The form facture is 25.5 and nobody builds with this and second the placement of the wire pads are excellant. There easy to access to solder to and heavy hands can manage to fit into tight places.
This is the wiring details i found, this says v2 and our board is v3. The clracing website doesnt have v3 instructions, WTF. Anyway power has been applied and no red flames this time
- VBAT = Power to FC and Voltage monitoring
- CAM+ = Power to Camera, 5V or VBAT (decide by solder bridge)
- CAM- = Ground
- CAMC = Camera Control
- CAMS = Camera Signal
- VTXS = VTX Signal
- VTX+ = Power to VTX, 5V or VBAT (decide by solder bridge)
- VTX- = Ground
- BB = Buzzer
- PIT = PitMode (VTX Power Controllable From Radio, requires Betaflight Setup)
- ON = VTX Power Constantly on (No setup)